In short (for those of you who don't have time for the detail), the three of us drove through Tibet, hiked to Everest Base Camp, took the train back to Beijing and slept on the Great Wall this week. Crazy.
For my loyal fans, here goes the rest of the story:
First I want to write a second take on Tibet. When we arrived in Lhasa, I prematurely characterized all of Tibet into this one city. Once we had a chance to drive through the countryside, and see some authentic Tibetan culture, I felt much more at home in my fantasy of the place. The land is full of nomads, farmers, and merchants who each represent a very distinct population of Tibet. The diversity is sweet, and I was so relieved to get out of the busy city. We drove over some of the highest roads in the world, and saw dozens of unique villages, mountain ranges, lakes, weird contraptions people drive in/on. It is truly one amazing place.

I can best compare the drive out to Base Camp to a surf mission south of the Boarder. The setup of the main highway in Tibet is very similar to Hwy 1 in Mexico- one lane each direction, raised up on a mound, and perilously lacking any form of shoulder or guard rails. The road will go straight for hours, and then suddenly turn into a series of 20 switchbacks up one side of a mountain, and then the same pattern down the other side. Just like Hwy 1, we had to pass laughably top-heavy semi trucks packed with people, animals, crops, etc., but in addition there are the herds of sheep, yak, horses, cows, and mountain goats darting across the road at any unpredictable moment. Pedestrians use the highway as well, and even large groups of school children wandered for miles along the narrow road. If that's not enough, there are horse-drawn rickshaws and weird tractors thrown into the mix that really make the speed of the highway vary. I'm so bummed I never got any pictures of all this (I was too busy using my hands to hold onto the "holy crap" bars inside our "new" 1993 4x4 Toyota Land Cruiser). The coolest part about this drive is the same as on the Mexican highway- that is, turning off the road at some completely non-descript point to venture off and find the secret spot. Our car held up to some serious off roading en-route to the small towns and monasteries where we slept along the way.

My favorite stop along the way was at this castle in Gyantse after our first half-day drive from Lhasa. We literally stumbled up the hillside, starving for oxygen since we had all yet to acclimate. The castle turned out to be one giant big-kids playground with the lack of glass casing, and caution tape we had encountered at all of the other major sights so far. The three of us crawled through little cracks, found "secret" rooms and doorways, climbed up the sides of the walls, and took turns scaring the crap out of each other since the only light we had was the meter light from our little cameras. Maybe you had to be there, but it was so sweet!
OK, on to base camp. The air just kept getting colder and thinner as we approached the base of the mountain range. I never took the time to acclimate properly in Lhasa, and I ended up paying for it when I found myself at 15,600 feet less than a week after months at sea level. But, base camp is what we spent a week of travel to get to, so I had to keep going. When we arrived at Rongpu Monastery in the middle of the afternoon, our driver pointed to the sign that said, "no vehicles beyond this point", which meant that we had to hike the 16km roundtrip to base camp. I was already throwing up and seeing blue spots from altitude sickness at this point, but I needed to see the EBC! The other two guys were really patient with my swaying/ hiking up the trail. Almost to the top of our trek, a car whizzes past us with a group of westerners who were smart enough to "tip" their driver to bypass the sign. Doh!

Base camp was really something special. It was the launching point of the first British expedition led by the famous Sir Edmund Hillary. Although many have used this spot since then, the camp showed no signs of life when we arrived since no mountaineering groups are climbing this late in the season. So, we were able to enjoy the up-close and personal views of the beast (in between raids of thick fog) all to ourselves for a half hour before dragging ourselves down the trail as the sun began to set. It was all really fast paced, but the journey was one that I will never forget!
We booked it back to Lhasa in order to get on the next morning train to Beijing. I started feeling alot better once we backed down a couple hundred feet; I am, without a doubt, a beach kid at heart... The same train let us off at Beijing 48 hours later, where we continued our crazy pace all afternoon taking subways, buses, and cab rides out to the Great Wall. Arriving at night, we were following a vaguely sketched map from a guy we met in our Beijing hostel. Somehow, it led us through dark alley streets and up little driveway hills to a trailhead basically in someones side-yard. Because all the signs said that it was illegal to proceed, we thought it wise to make friends with the property owners. We ate a great feast for a late dinner, and bought a couple beers for the inevitable celebrating, and some canned coffee for the morning, costing each of us a staggering.....$3US. Already a good night. So, we made our way through the side-yard and up the hill, hoping the great wall would find its way into our vision at some point soon. After a 15-20 min easy hike, we found the wall just as a security guard found our party. To our surprise, he led us to the easiest place to scale the wall, and showed us a place to sleep next to his make-shift campsite inside on of the watch towers. We toasted that night with our $0.50 beers and stared at the first stars we had seen all trip. My 40-degree bag hardly cut it that night, but I was so giddy with the thought of where I was and what I was doing, that I hardly cared about the cold.

As I explain in the video page, we really did wake up to M80 blasts at 530ish, and proceeded to hike through the section of the wall that is currently undergoing restoration (aka, closed to tourists). We didn't see a single other person, except for some of the workers when we first woke up. It was epic running up and down the wall taking poser pictures and climbing up parts of the wall/ watchtowers.
So, I knocked two more things off my list, and am now off to Hanoi, Vietnam where I am looking forward to some serious beach time, massage, and tropical drinks in pineapples... It's been a
really GOOD week!!